• By LL


« Retro < Futuristic » - ink, LL (Paris, May ‘21)

Semi-rigid textured fabrics, as if made of genetically enhanced reptile scales; adorn the torso like space armours.

Sharp silhouettes with cinched waist; envelope the body like a second skin.

Power shoulders, full length gloves, thigh-high boots and platforms; extend limbs and ask for attention.

Metallic details, zips and straps explore new body festishes and allow versatility throughout duties and occasions

At the turn of the 1950s, a diverse array of super heroines and space princesses have found a voice to remind us that strength can derive from something other than brutal domination and war.

Half a century later, in the medias and fashion, the futuristic aesthetics as seen through the lenses of that recent past, have surged to the full dignity of a macro trend.

Within retro-futurism several designers have married its values to the specificity of their brand and craftsmanship. Iris Van Herpen, for example, adopts organic shapes and nano-tech 3D fabrics to express an idea of universal beauty and harmony linked to the female body. Gucci's Alessandro Michele takes us for a psychedelic time travel where age and gender fluidity challenge the viewer's morals and pre-concepts.

Finally, I cannot forget to mention Rick Owens and his metaphysical deconstructivism: what are we humans, after all, if not a chaotic masterpiece made of darkness, light, dirt and heaven. He doesn’t limit his work by referring to a specific past, nevertheless, the visible traces of an ancient story are carried through a complex symbology.

Gucci Spring 2017 - Exit 31

Rick Owens Fall 2021 - Exit 3